Problems
- Measure ALL parameters (NH3, NO2, NO3, pH, temperature)
- Check to make sure the filter hasn't "died" (recent antibiotic use, cleaning with tap water, prolonged power outage)
- Check to see if there's a dead fish hidden somewhere
- Check to make sure no toxic products have been introduced (sprays, air fresheners, insecticides—they are lethal)
- Emergency partial water change while the matter is being investigated
SEASONALITY AND ADAPTATIONS
Summer
Problem: High temperature (>30°C is dangerous for many species) Solutions:
- Surface Evaporation Fans (lower temperature by 3–5°C, increase evaporation)
- Do not use the heater during the hottest months
- Freeze osmosis water and use it as ice cubes (only in marine aquariums, with caution)
- Chiller (permanent solution)
- Turn off the lights during the hottest part of the day
- Place the aquarium in the coolest part of the house
Winter
Problem: Power outage, broken heater Solutions for Cold Weather Emergencies:
- Hot water bottle (not boiled) floating
- Wrapping with blankets or towels to retain heat
- Keep the lid tightly closed during the hottest part of the day
Seasonal Changes
- Changes in natural light → can cause seasonal algal blooms
- In countries with a dry/wet season → fish react to changes in temperature and pressure → natural breeding season
CHECKLIST FOR A NEW AQUARIUM
First Week
- Install equipment (filter, heater, light)
- Add substrate and decorations
- Fill with treated water
- Remove the filter and heater
- Measure temperature and pH
Weeks 2–6 (maturation)
- Add a source of ammonia (fishless) or small numbers of hardy fish
- Test for NH3, NO2, and NO3 every 2–3 days
- Change the water when NO₂ > 1 ppm (in the fish-based method)
- The cycle is complete: NH3=0, NO2=0, NO3 present
Introduction of New Species
- Slow acclimatization (drip or floating bag)
- Introduce peaceful fish first, aggressive ones last
- Do not add more than 1–2 new species per week
- Observe behavior during the first few days