Heating
Heaters
Types:
- Standard submersible pump: the most common, inexpensive, and reliable
- Flow heater (in-line): Installed in the external filter tube; not visible in the aquarium
- Titanium heater: corrosion-resistant, for marine use or hard water
Recommended brands: Eheim Jäger (the most reliable), Aquael Comfort, Fluval E
Rule of thumb: 2–3 W per liter (150 L → 300–450 W heater)
Caution: Never remove the heater from the water while it is plugged in → the glass will crack. Heaters may "get stuck" in the ON position → lethal overheating. Use a separate thermometer to verify the temperature.
Chillers
To:
- Marine Aquariums in Warm Climates
- Neocaridina shrimp in the summer (>24°C is too hot)
- Cold-water Aquariums (Koi, Goldfish) in Warm Climates
Types:
- Compressor chiller: the most efficient one; connect it to the filter circuit
- Evaporative fans: inexpensive, limited effect (3–5°C), increase evaporation
- Peltier modules: moderate cooling effect, for nano aquariums
PUMPS AND CIRCULATION
Circulation pumps (powerheads)
Purpose: To create water flow in the aquarium. In a marine reef tank, this is essential for corals to receive food and oxygen.
Required flow:
- Freshwater: 5–10 times the volume per hour
- Marine FOWLR: 10–20x
- Marine reef: 20–40x (with alternating current)