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Maturation

Aquarium Cycling

The Complete Cycle in a New Aquarium

Weeks 1–2: Ammonia levels rise (there aren't enough bacteria yet) Weeks 2–3: Ammonia levels drop, nitrite levels rise (Nitrosomonas establishes a colony) Weeks 3–6: Nitrite levels drop, nitrate levels rise (Nitrobacter becomes established) Weeks 6–8: NH3=0, NO2=0, NO3 present → aquarium is mature and ready

Aging Methods

MethodDescriptionAdvantagesDrawbacks
Fishless cyclingAdd pure ammonia or fish-free foodMore humaneSlower
With hardy fishAdd a few very hardy fish (danios, gambusia)FasterStresses/kills fish
With bottled bacteriaProducts such as Tetra SafeStart, Dr. Tim'sVery quickly (days)Mixed results
Mature Filter TransferBringing filter media from another aquariumFaster and more reliableYou need a donor aquarium
With live plantsPlants absorb NH3 and NO3, accelerating the processNaturalRequires light

Signs That the Aquarium Is Mature

  • Ammonia: 0 ppm
  • Nitrites: 0 ppm
  • Nitrates: >0 ppm (present but at low levels)
  • Your cycle will stabilize even if you skip meals

Aquarium Volume and Dimensions

General (Guidelines) Rules

  • Rule of thumb: 1 cm of fish per liter of water (very simplistic; disregard for large fish)
  • Golden rule: Consider the fish's behavior; if it swims in a school, it needs lateral space.
  • Minimum size: Never less than 54L for any "permanent" configuration

Rates by Volume

NameLitersFeatures
Nano Aquarium<30LFor shrimp and very small fish—experts only
Small aquarium30-80LGood for getting started with small groups
Medium-sized aquarium80-200LOffers more options, more stable
Large aquarium200-500LGreater chemical stability, more possible species
Mega Aquarium>500LFor large fish, advanced saltwater anglers

The Importance of Surface Area (Not Just Volume)

The water surface area determines the O2/CO2 exchange. A tall, narrow aquarium has less surface area than a short, wide one with the same volume → poorer oxygenation.


Species Compatibility

Factors to Consider