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Planted Aquarium

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Overall difficulty: ★★★☆☆ (basic) to ★★★★★ (advanced aquascaping) Setup cost: medium – very high Recommended minimum size: 60 L Who it's for: intermediate – advanced


Description

Live plants are the stars of the aquarium. The goal is to recreate an underwater garden where the plants grow healthy and lush. The fish are secondary: they are chosen to complement the design. This requires an understanding of photosynthesis, nutrients, and CO₂ chemistry.


Water Parameters

ParameterBasic setup (without CO2)Advanced hydroponics (with CO2)
Temperature22 – 27°C22 – 26°C
pH6.5 – 7.56.0 – 7.0 (CO2 lowers it)
GH4–12 °dGH3–8 °dGH
KH3–8 °dKH3–6 °dKH
CO2—15–30 ppm
NO35–20 ppm10–25 ppm
PO40.1–1 ppm0.5 – 2 ppm
Faith< 0.1 ppm0.05–0.1 ppm

Required Equipment

EquipmentBasic (without CO2)Advanced (with CO2)
FilterExternal (little surface movement)External quality control; underwater output
LightingT5 or medium-sized LED (PAR 50–100)High-Power LED (PAR 100–250+)
CO2—Tank + regulator + diffuser + drop checker
SubstrateInert or nutritiousNutrient-rich (ADA Amazonia, Tropica Soil)
FertilizationWeekly BasicsDaily Fertilization (EI or Dosage)
HeaterYesYes

Plant Species by Level

No CO2 / low light (easy): Anubias, Java ferns, Cryptocoryne, Java moss, Vallisneria, Sagittaria

With CO2 / medium light: Rotala rotundifolia, Ludwigia repens, Hygrophila, Echinodorus, Eleocharis

With CO2 / high light (advanced): HC Cuba, Glossostigma, Rotala macrandra, Fissidens, Eriocaulon


Recommended Fish

Tetras (Hemigrammus bleheri, Paracheirodon), rasboras, Otocinclus (essential for algae control), Corydoras, Amano shrimp (algae control), cherry shrimp (biofilm).


Common Algae — What They Are, Why They Appear, and How to Get Rid of Them

A planted aquarium has its own algae ecosystem. Algae serve as an indicator of imbalances. Each type of algae points to a different problem.

Brown Algae / Diatoms

When it appears: During the first 2–6 weeks of any new aquarium or after replacing the substrate. Why: Silicates in fresh water + low light + unstable biological filter. Solution: Wait. Otocinclus. Increase lighting moderately. It will go away on its own.


Green Dot Algae (GSA)

When it appears: In setups with intense light but low phosphate levels. Reason: PO4 < 0.05 ppm. The plants are growing slowly (due to a lack of phosphorus), and the GSA is taking advantage of the situation. Solution: Raise the PO4 level to 0.5–1 ppm. Use Nerite snails for the glass.


Black Algae BBA

When it appears: The most problematic issue in CO2-enriched setups. It appears on the edges of leaves, roots, and diffusers. Why this happens in CO2-injected hydroponics: CO2 levels fluctuate (it is injected in bursts rather than at a steady rate) → plants go from saturation to deficiency → the BBA takes advantage of the deficiency. Why in CO2-free planted tanks: Excess organic matter in the water. Solution:

  1. Stabilize CO2 → reduce the number of bubbles per second and keep it constant
  2. Ensure that CO2 is distributed properly (diffuser properly positioned, adequate flow)
  3. Add Easy Carbo directly to the BBA using a pipette (turn off circulation for 5–10 minutes)
  4. Add Amano shrimp in the appropriate amount (1 per 2–3 L)
  5. The cold-feeding Siamese (Crossocheilus oblongus) actively feeds on BBA

Filamentous Green Algae (GHA)

When it occurs: Common at the start of a planted tank or when there is an imbalance between nutrients and light. Why: Excess light relative to nutrients and plant growth. The plants do not "consume" enough, so the algae take over. Solution:

  1. Reduce the photoperiod to 6–7 hours for 2–3 weeks
  2. Amano shrimp (20–30 in a 100-liter aquarium during treatment)
  3. Fertilize properly so the plants can compete
  4. Reduce CO2 if it is too high (it can paradoxically cause GHA by making the water too acidic)

Cyanobacteria (Blue-Green Algae)

When it appears: In areas with little water movement, compacted substrate, and aquariums with low nitrate levels but high phosphate levels. Reason: N:P imbalance + stagnant water. The ideal ratio is ~10:1 (NO3:PO4). Solution:

  1. Increase water circulation and flow in the affected areas
  2. Physical Suction Using a Siphon
  3. Raise nitrate levels if they are too low (< 5 ppm): add nitrogen fertilizer
  4. Total darkness for 3–5 days
  5. Apply H₂O₂ directly to the blanket (turn off the filter for 30 minutes)

Beard Algae / Staghorn Algae (Compsopogon spp.)

Appearance: Branched filaments 1–5 cm long, gray-green or gray, resembling deer antlers. Reason for occurrence: Similar to BBA. Fluctuations in CO2 and high ammonia levels. Solution:

  • Same protocol as BBA
  • Easy Carbo Directly
  • Amano Shrimp
  • Improving CO2 Stability

"New Planting" Series: What to Expect Week by Week

WeekWhat's going on?What to Do
1-2Diatoms everywhere. Plants are adapting (some are dying off—that's normal)Do not intervene. Add Otocinclus.
2-4The diatoms are gradually disappearing. Some GHA may appear.Reduce the photoperiod to 7 hours if GHA is present
4-8The plants are starting to grow. Equilibrio is improving.Start fertilizing. Gradually increase the photoperiod.
2–3 monthsStabilized aquarium. Plants are growing vigorously.Standard Maintenance

Most Common Mistakes

  • Too much light from the start (causes an algal bloom)
  • Unstable CO2 levels (fluctuating rather than constant): causes BBA
  • Incorrect growing medium for the type of plant
  • Do not fertilize columnar plants (which absorb nutrients from the water)
  • Rinse the filter with tap water (this kills bacteria)

Key Tips

  • Light stimulates growth, but it also promotes algae growth: start with a low setting (7 hours, 60% intensity) and gradually increase it
  • Stable CO2 levels are more important than volume: a constant rate of 1 bubble per second is better than 3 bubbles per second with fluctuations
  • Amano shrimp are the best defense against algae: always add them to planted tanks
  • The "planted triangle" rule: light + CO2 + nutrients must be balanced. Increasing one without the others = algae